China Travels | Phil & Sabine's Excellent Adventure
June 2010 - Summer is on its way!
30 May- 1 June
Sunday morning was great. We were invited to brunch by another volunteer. The food was brilliant! We enjoyed cream cheeeeese, salmon salad, freshly-baked wholemeal bread (thanks Grenelle) and pancakes with maple syrup for afters. We came home pleasantly stuffed. After much of the afternoon to recover, we headed out for a short bike ride to purloin a few bricks for some kitchen DIY we had planned (don't panic, it's just a shelf).
Sunday morning was great. We were invited to brunch by another volunteer. The food was brilliant! We enjoyed cream cheeeeese, salmon salad, freshly-baked wholemeal bread (thanks Grenelle) and pancakes with maple syrup for afters. We came home pleasantly stuffed. After much of the afternoon to recover, we headed out for a short bike ride to purloin a few bricks for some kitchen DIY we had planned (don't panic, it's just a shelf).
2 June-4 June
I had a day of tying up loose ends. The NVs and I first went to the local Teaching Research Office to collect info and money before ambling through the large veg market and picking up a kilo of starwberries for a pound. In the afternoon I turned into Gordon Ramsey (or is that Fanny Craddock?). The strawberries were turned into jam, some apricots made a tangy crumble and I knocked out some flapjack for good measure. Thursday and Friday were spent sorting out training for next week.
5 June-7 June
We decided it was time for a trip to Xi'an for the weekend, our nearest big city, to collect desperately needed supplies of butter and cheese (we'd die without it). So at 9am on Sat we caught our usual jalopy and settled down with out MP3 players and books for the next 5 hours. After booking in at the hostel and dropping my camera off for repair we grabbed some noodles down the street then I followed Bine around the shops looking for clothes (isn't it always the way fellas?). Our tea was a tasty treat of barbequed chicken and blanched veg in a satay sauce washed down with a bottle of Tsingdao.
We decided it was time for a trip to Xi'an for the weekend, our nearest big city, to collect desperately needed supplies of butter and cheese (we'd die without it). So at 9am on Sat we caught our usual jalopy and settled down with out MP3 players and books for the next 5 hours. After booking in at the hostel and dropping my camera off for repair we grabbed some noodles down the street then I followed Bine around the shops looking for clothes (isn't it always the way fellas?). Our tea was a tasty treat of barbequed chicken and blanched veg in a satay sauce washed down with a bottle of Tsingdao.
Sunday came, after a fitful night's sleep (well that's mixed dorms for you), bringing a welcomed Western breakfast of eggs and toast etc, mmm... After this we caught a bus to Carrefour expecting fresh baguettes by the arnful and buckets of blue cheese (as we'd experienced this Qingdao in the East). Sadly we were disappointed but continued to Metro supermarket. Our luck wasn't in even here - they'd sold out of the Irish cheddar we crave! We came away with me doing my utmost to console Bine. Alas it wasn't to be, she said the only thing that would possibly fill the void was an curry. So that's what we had. After a lick an' a promise at the hotel we took a bus to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda south east of the city to see the musical fountains then strolled around the block to an Indian restaurand we'd looked up. Just as we arrived a taxi pulled over and out got Kirsten and Laima, 2 other international volunteers! So it was a table for 4 please. We left later full of naan, rice and chicken somethingorother (oh, and Kingfisher beer).
8th- 13th June
The beginning of June in schools is the start of the examination period. This week the Senior 3 students took their “gaokao”, the university entrance exam. The Senior 3 students in their final year at school work incredibly long hours. Their annual holiday is significantly reduced and most attend school every day, having one Sunday off a month. They generally start school at about 6.30am and finish about 9.30pm. They prepare for this exam from the first day they start school and the result determines which university they can go to. The better the university the better job they will get in the future. The admissions policy to university is based on their point score. There are only so many university places at the top universities and so only the students with the highest score can be enrolled. Schools close for three days and teachers are dispatched to different counties to invigilate at different schools. Cars are not allowed to toot their horns* during this time and roads are even closed in order to minimise the noise. The examination period is a high security event and armed guards defend the school gates in order to prevent unauthorised people entering. Every year, the examinations are also fraught with varying degrees of fraud and schools and the educations bureaus across the country try their best to fight this. Fingers crossed that they all get the result they deserve!
*Where we live, drivers use their horns to warn other vehicles, cyclists and pedestrians that they are approaching. Subsequently on a daily basis you hear a cacophony of constant bar horns, from 5AM to 12PM. Ear plugs are essential for a decent nights sleep!
The beginning of June in schools is the start of the examination period. This week the Senior 3 students took their “gaokao”, the university entrance exam. The Senior 3 students in their final year at school work incredibly long hours. Their annual holiday is significantly reduced and most attend school every day, having one Sunday off a month. They generally start school at about 6.30am and finish about 9.30pm. They prepare for this exam from the first day they start school and the result determines which university they can go to. The better the university the better job they will get in the future. The admissions policy to university is based on their point score. There are only so many university places at the top universities and so only the students with the highest score can be enrolled. Schools close for three days and teachers are dispatched to different counties to invigilate at different schools. Cars are not allowed to toot their horns* during this time and roads are even closed in order to minimise the noise. The examination period is a high security event and armed guards defend the school gates in order to prevent unauthorised people entering. Every year, the examinations are also fraught with varying degrees of fraud and schools and the educations bureaus across the country try their best to fight this. Fingers crossed that they all get the result they deserve!
*Where we live, drivers use their horns to warn other vehicles, cyclists and pedestrians that they are approaching. Subsequently on a daily basis you hear a cacophony of constant bar horns, from 5AM to 12PM. Ear plugs are essential for a decent nights sleep!
During the week we also had a visit from the VSO Programme Office. They visit volunteers annually in order to see how things are progressing within the placements. During their three day visit, there were lots of meetings and of course the usual banquets with the various leaders. They are often quite an elaborate affair, with an array of “special delicacies” such as chicken feet, intestines, frog, dog, turtle…. which are usually washed down with several glasses of beer and the local firewater (Baijiu) during the various toasts and noisy drinking dice and “finger games”. When I say to my colleagues that we don’t play dice games in restaurants they are little puzzled and ask what we do instead. When I reply that we just relax and chat, they are even more puzzled! They consider this most odd.
The weather is hot most days now and shorts and
flip flops are the daily attire. Sadly my flip flops only
flipped and did not flop and so I had to take them to
the cobbler on the corner of the street to get fixed.
He did a great job for 5p!
flip flops are the daily attire. Sadly my flip flops only
flipped and did not flop and so I had to take them to
the cobbler on the corner of the street to get fixed.
He did a great job for 5p!
On Sunday, there was a “xiangbol” market (locally embroidered decorations) on the edge of town. After a walk around we headed south on our bikes to the surrounding countryside. As we have previously stated in our blogs, Xifeng is in a period of redevelopment and roads that we recently once cycled down no longer exist or are a pile of rubble. Or they lead to nowhere as we discovered on a few occasions. Cycling down one country lane we were met by a not too friendly dog which chased us away at top speed. En route I got a puncture which, along with the bumpy lanes and beating sun, made cycling rather difficult. We were exhausted by the time we got back to the flat and sunburned. We had only planned to be out for about an hour or so and returned five hours later…..
In the evening we met up with some friends and had a BBQ in town. A man on the adjacent table insisted on treating us which was most kind of him. He simply wanted to pay and show us hospitality. At first we were a little suspicious as there is no thing as a free lunch (right?) but he was totally genuine. We didn’t even find out his name, but thank you again, whoever you are.
In the evening we met up with some friends and had a BBQ in town. A man on the adjacent table insisted on treating us which was most kind of him. He simply wanted to pay and show us hospitality. At first we were a little suspicious as there is no thing as a free lunch (right?) but he was totally genuine. We didn’t even find out his name, but thank you again, whoever you are.
14th-20th June
When there are exams and/or national holidays, schools amend their timetable and schools open for all students and teachers on weekends in order to recoup the days lost. As the younger students don’t attend school on the weekend, schools then follow the timetable of another day. Last Saturday, for example, was Tuesday, Sunday was Wednesday, Monday was Thursday and Tuesday was Friday. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (as you know it) were days holiday to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival or if you were unlucky the Junior 3 school leaving exams. Not all schools followed this pattern at it was up to the school Headmaster to decide which days to have as holiday. Phil as a result had different days off to me and some teachers had no holiday as they had to invigilate the exams. Complicated, but you get used to it…….
When there are exams and/or national holidays, schools amend their timetable and schools open for all students and teachers on weekends in order to recoup the days lost. As the younger students don’t attend school on the weekend, schools then follow the timetable of another day. Last Saturday, for example, was Tuesday, Sunday was Wednesday, Monday was Thursday and Tuesday was Friday. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (as you know it) were days holiday to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival or if you were unlucky the Junior 3 school leaving exams. Not all schools followed this pattern at it was up to the school Headmaster to decide which days to have as holiday. Phil as a result had different days off to me and some teachers had no holiday as they had to invigilate the exams. Complicated, but you get used to it…….
On Thursday lunchtime we were invited to a wedding. The lady who invited us is a sort of colleague. A few weeks ago I visited her school to ascertain what sort of training the teachers there are in need of. She does not attend the training and so our acquaintance is really based on one single encounter. Her daughter was getting married in the town and I was asked to make a speech to which I agreed. I was happily chatting to the other guests on the table when the MC suddenly beckoned me to the stage. And so in front of a few hundred people I made a speech, starting off in Chinese and then finishing off in English, which was translated by a colleague. I had naturally presumed that my speech would be one of many, but not the case. Not even the bride and groom made a speech. I felt rather embarrassed at being the centre of attention, yet a random foreigner at a wedding is seen as kudos, bizarre as that seems to me! The wedding itself was quite a western and lavish affair, even though at times it seemed a little surreal. Quite different to our countryside wedding last winter when we were huddled around a small table in a marquee of sorts in our coats trying to keep warm. Have to say though that we enjoyed both weddings, despite their differences.
On Sunday we were invited next door for lunch, at 11.30…… Chinese people don’t understand the Western concept of the Sunday morning lie in!! We had only just eaten breakfast when we got a knock on the door. Good job we are both good eaters!! After all the food, we went for what is becoming our customary Sunday bike ride.
And most importantly...... this week saw the start of Phil and Beaney's cheese making project. If cheese won't come to Xifeng, then let the cheese be made in Xifeng. It's not exactly your Tesco's Finest range but it is a very close second, let me tell you and it's just the job for a light summer sandwich. Perfect. Possibly a future business.......
And most importantly...... this week saw the start of Phil and Beaney's cheese making project. If cheese won't come to Xifeng, then let the cheese be made in Xifeng. It's not exactly your Tesco's Finest range but it is a very close second, let me tell you and it's just the job for a light summer sandwich. Perfect. Possibly a future business.......
21st - 27th June
A sort of quiet week in comparison to others. The weather is really quite hot most days and is making everybody feel lethargic, my self included! Now that the weather is warmer, the once very draughty noodle restaurants that we used to go to in winter have put chairs and table outside. Al fresco eating in Xifeng – who would have thought it! This week was the last film club for the semester. The Senior 1 and 2 students watched Alice in Wonderland during their self-study lesson, a welcome break between their exams. I also organised a small ceremony for the Longdong University students and their contribution to the “Englandtown” project. Each student was presented with a certificate from the Headmaster and we showed a short movie using the pictures taken during the event.
On Friday afternoon, I visited a rural primary school to give a couple of model lessons and observe some lessons. The school lies on the outskirts of the city and due to the city redevelopment, the road that once led there is now in a state of disrepair, making access very difficult. Taxi drivers are currently not always able to drive down it due to ongoing road repairs.
At the end of the day, we tried to catch a taxi back again but not only could we see no taxis, there were no vehicles in sight. We saw a pickup tryke and asked if he would take us to the main road. He agreed and so in as dignified a way as possible, bearing in mind we were wearing a skirt, we jumped in the back. The road was very bumpy and uneven and he was traveling at a fair old speed for such a small vehicle. With little to hold onto, we were slipping and sliding around like ducks on ice. We arrived at the main road and got out. I went to thank the man and he immediately told me that he wanted 10 RMB for the pleasure. The taxi had cost that on the outward journey and had taken us twice as fair. I suggested 5RMB which was a more than fair amount. To be honest, I had thought that he would have asked for no money and that he stopped and gave us a lift as an act of kindness. How naïve I was! The man was rather assertive and persistence in his manner and indicated that he would only accept 10 RMB and nothing less. Even the local bystanders admitted that he was asking too much. He said that because I was a foreigner, 10RMB was no big deal. This made me all the more determined not to pay! There was a bit of a stand-off. He was certainly not going to lose face. In the meantime, we rang the school where we had been and they sent a taxi to pick us up. I made a final offer of 5RMB or nothing, which he refused. We then got into the taxi. He came over, and in quite a threatening way started to rant and rave. Fortunately the taxi driver put him in his place, gave him the 5RMB and we sped off into the distance. A most unusual experience based on my time here in China.
A sort of quiet week in comparison to others. The weather is really quite hot most days and is making everybody feel lethargic, my self included! Now that the weather is warmer, the once very draughty noodle restaurants that we used to go to in winter have put chairs and table outside. Al fresco eating in Xifeng – who would have thought it! This week was the last film club for the semester. The Senior 1 and 2 students watched Alice in Wonderland during their self-study lesson, a welcome break between their exams. I also organised a small ceremony for the Longdong University students and their contribution to the “Englandtown” project. Each student was presented with a certificate from the Headmaster and we showed a short movie using the pictures taken during the event.
On Friday afternoon, I visited a rural primary school to give a couple of model lessons and observe some lessons. The school lies on the outskirts of the city and due to the city redevelopment, the road that once led there is now in a state of disrepair, making access very difficult. Taxi drivers are currently not always able to drive down it due to ongoing road repairs.
At the end of the day, we tried to catch a taxi back again but not only could we see no taxis, there were no vehicles in sight. We saw a pickup tryke and asked if he would take us to the main road. He agreed and so in as dignified a way as possible, bearing in mind we were wearing a skirt, we jumped in the back. The road was very bumpy and uneven and he was traveling at a fair old speed for such a small vehicle. With little to hold onto, we were slipping and sliding around like ducks on ice. We arrived at the main road and got out. I went to thank the man and he immediately told me that he wanted 10 RMB for the pleasure. The taxi had cost that on the outward journey and had taken us twice as fair. I suggested 5RMB which was a more than fair amount. To be honest, I had thought that he would have asked for no money and that he stopped and gave us a lift as an act of kindness. How naïve I was! The man was rather assertive and persistence in his manner and indicated that he would only accept 10 RMB and nothing less. Even the local bystanders admitted that he was asking too much. He said that because I was a foreigner, 10RMB was no big deal. This made me all the more determined not to pay! There was a bit of a stand-off. He was certainly not going to lose face. In the meantime, we rang the school where we had been and they sent a taxi to pick us up. I made a final offer of 5RMB or nothing, which he refused. We then got into the taxi. He came over, and in quite a threatening way started to rant and rave. Fortunately the taxi driver put him in his place, gave him the 5RMB and we sped off into the distance. A most unusual experience based on my time here in China.
To be continued...
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